(Article of periodic en Anglais - 2011)

Document title

Thresholds for morphological changes on an exposed sandy beach as a function of wave height

Authors(s) and Affiliation(s)

ALMEIDA L.P. (1) ; FERREIRA Ó (1) ; PACHECO A. (1) ;
(1) CIMA, Univ. Algarve, Faro, PORTUGAL


A sandy beach in the south of Portugal (Faro beach, Ria Formosa) was surveyed from the dune crest seaward to 15 m depth 20 times over a period of 26 months. Wave time-series between surveys were analysed to obtain relationships between wave height and vertical profile variations and to define wave thresholds for important morphological changes. Results show that the active zone of the profile lies between 5 m above and 10.4 m below mean sea level. Based on the pattern of vertical variability, the AA. divided the profile into 4 cross-shore sectors and calculated thresholds for significant wave height generating important morphological changes in each sector


Article of periodic

published at : Earth surface processes and landforms / ISSN 0197-9337 / CODEN ESPLDB

Editor : Wiley, Chichester - ROYAUME-UNI (1981)

Millesime : 2011, vol. 36, no4 [pp. 523-532]

Bibliographic references : 1 p.

Collation : 10 fig., 2 tabl.



INIST-CNRS, Cote INIST : 17355

Digital Object Identifier

Go to electronic document thanks to its DOI : doi:10.1002/esp.2072

Tous droits réservés © Prodig - Bibliographie Géographique Internationale (BGI), 2011
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