(Article of periodic en Anglais - 2013)

Document title

Field observations of wave refraction and propagation pathways on coral reef platforms

Authors(s) and Affiliation(s)

(1) School of Environment, The University of Auckland, Auckland, NOUVELLE-ZELANDE


Field experiments were conducted to investigate the refraction and propagation of ocean waves across 2 coral reef platforms in the Maldives, central Indian Ocean. Seven pressure sensors were deployed on each reef to quantify temporal and spatial variations in wave characteristics across the platform surfaces. Directional wave properties were calculated from high frequency wave and current records obtained at 2 locations on each reef and corroborate theoretically predicted propagation pathways derived from an analytical wave refraction model. Results demonstrate that reef geometry critically controls the refraction and propagation behaviour of incident swell across the reef structures. Furthermore, wave focussing has been identified as a major mechanism controlling the transformation of wave energy across the reefs. Results provide the first field-based validation of wave refraction and convergence on coral reefs and have significant implications for sedimentation processes and the formation of platform deposits


Article of periodic

published at : Earth surface processes and landforms / ISSN 0197-9337 / CODEN ESPLDB

Editor : Wiley, Chichester - ROYAUME-UNI (1981)

Millesime : 2013, vol. 38, no9 [pp. 913-925]

Bibliographic references : 1 p.

Collation : 9 fig., 3 tabl.



INIST-CNRS, Cote INIST : 17355

Digital Object Identifier

Go to electronic document thanks to its DOI : doi:10.1002/esp.3328

Tous droits réservés © Prodig - Bibliographie Géographique Internationale (BGI), 2014
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